Just Dessert
In the month of May I made several fabulous desserts. I know. Toot your own horn much, Mimi? Why yes… yes I do!
Anyway… the first dessert I made was a croquembouche. The name comes from the French phrase croque en bouche , ‘(something that) crunches in the mouth’. It is made of profiteroles (in this case cream puffs) piled into a cone and bound with threads of caramel (or spun sugar). It may also be decorated with sugared almonds, chocolate, flowers, or ribbons (but not in this case).
This was a monumental dessert. My initial inspiration came from the Sugar Baby cookbook. I spent two weeks perfecting my cream puffs. After several recipes, I landed on the Joy of Cooking recipe for choux paste and it was perfect.
Then came the filling recipe. This ended up also being a JoC recipe… I followed the vanilla pastry cream recipe. The sugar part did come from the Sugar Baby book. But I know that I didn’t cook it long enough. This part I didn’t practice. So the day of the party I blindly chucked some water and sugar into the pot and followed the directions. The sugar kept crystallizing. I tried again. I got a fine layer of web around the stacked cream puffs, but then the sugar went crystalline again. I took a picture and called it good. And thank god I took a picture! If I hadn’t, I would have had no proof that there had been a web at all. By the time dessert came around, the web had disappeared and formed crystals on the cream puffs. It was delicious, none-the-less.
Will I make it again? It is a tough call. The cream puffs are downright awesome as is. The spun sugar? Well I cut a whisk so that I could do it properly, so I guess I should make it at least one more time. But only for a special occasion. And I really have to figure out how to do the sugar correctly.
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